Lorsque, en 1956, Eric Newby décide de partir pour le Nuristan, cette région particulièrement accidentée et sauvage de l'Afghanistan, il ignore tout des Afghans, de l'alpinisme et, pour tout dire, des voyages... Son humour légendaire et un sens pratique insoupçonné lui permettront d'échapper aux pires traquenards. Remarqué par Evelyn Waugh et Graham Greene, salué comme un maître par Paul Theroux et Bruce Chatwin, Eric Newby (1919-2006) a sillonné la planète dans les circonstances les plus ahurissantes et exercé les métiers les plus divers (mousse, employé de haute couture, etc.). Sa vie est une suite de curieuses expériences qu'il a relatées avec beaucoup de succès dans ses livres désopilants. Un chef-d'oeuvre d'humour british, par l'une des figures les plus populaires du «travel-writing». Un des livres de voyage fétiches de Jean d'Ormesson.
'Slowly Down the Ganges' is seen as a vintage Newby masterpiece, alongside 'A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush' and 'Love and War in the Apennines'. Told with Newby's self-deprecating humour and wry attention to detail, this is a classic of the genre and a window into an enchanting piece of history. On his forty-forth birthday, Eric Newby sets out on an incredible journey: to travel the 1,200-mile length of India's holy river. In a misguided attempt to keep him out of trouble, Wanda, his life-long travel companion and wife, is to be his fellow boatwoman. Their plan is to begin in the great plain of Hardwar and finish in the Bay of Bengal, but the journey almost immediately becomes markedly slower and more treacherous than either had imagined - running aground sixty-three times in the first six days. Travelling in a variety of unstable boats, as well as by rail, bus and bullock cart, and resting at sandbanks and remote villages, the Newbys encounter engaging characters and glorious mishaps, including the non-existence of large-scale maps of the country, a realisation that questions of pure 'logic' cause grave offense and, on one occasion, the only person in sight for miles is an old man who is himself unsure where he is. Newby's only consolation: on a river, if you go downstream, you're sure to end up somewhere.
